I don’t speak Arabic … YET.

I passed my State Department Arabic class! After 12 weeks of not-as-diligent-as-it-should-have-been study, I can now read the alphabet, count to a million, say hello, and introduce myself. My teacher left me with a long list of subjects I need to work on before I start the second course in the series. Good thing it was pass/fail.

Exciting things I can do with Arabic in Cotonou:

  • Read Koranic verses on the walls of my favorite Lebanese restaurants
  • Greet the owners of my favorite Lebanese restaurants
  • Figure out what they’re saying during call to prayer at 5:30 every morning
  • Read arabic poetry (OK, not yet, but that’s the thing I’m most excited about!)

Can you think of anything else?

 
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On life as I know it.

I passed the Foreign Service written exam. Now I have to write some essays. Then maybe I’ll have to fly back to Washington (oh no! not the briar patch!). Then maybe one day I’ll be a FILTHY FILTHY RICH RICH expat with a big SUV and a big house and domestic staff.

The alternative, which is staying in West Africa and continuing to grow our business, is pretty attractive too.

So life is good.

 
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Oh, Cotonou, I hope you never change

On the way to the grocery store, Bertrand and I noticed this misaligned gas station:

Oops!

 
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It’s still raining in Cotonou

Flooding in Cotonou

Much to the delight of everyone around me, this yovo pulled out her camera over the weekend and snapped some pictures of the lake I’m going to have to drive through on the way to work every day.


Another photo from the moto

More pictures on flickr.

 
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Shopping for deep sea fish in Cotonou

Last week, I decided that I absolutely needed a hunk of fresh tuna. Never mind that I had no idea how to go about buying tuna. I had to have it. In Cotonou, salt water fish are bought fresh off the boat at the Port of Cotonou. Chaos reigns as fishermen and fish mongers negotiate prices and quantities. There’s never enough fish for all of the fish mongers to get their share, and the women get vicious. Once the women have their fish, they happily make their way to their stands, basins tottering precariously on their heads.

Fish in a basin

Yesterday, there was no tuna to be found. None had been brought in Sunday and frozen, and while there were still boats at see when I went to the market, the fish mongers didn’t expect to see any until later in the week. No problem. Now that I was at the fish market and had seen the fish debark from the boat, I was happy to settle for something else.

Fish in a basin

Bertrand and I went searching for good looking fish. Although we were hoping for some red carp, we were eventually convinced to buy Dorade. I only wanted one (they’re big!), but Bertrand wanted two. And since they’re sold in kilogram units, we bought three to bring the weight up to 2 kilos. 5 000 F CFA ($10!) for 2 kg of fish is a pretty good deal.

After paying for the fish, there are young women who are happy to scale and clean the fish for a hundred francs a kilo. Like all the women at the market, she was unwilling to have her picture taken. Next time, maybe. :)

Once home, I got online. What’s a dorade, and how do you cook one? Turns out, dorade is the French word for Mahi Mahi! We’d unknowingly brought home three enormous mahi mahis, something I definitely know how to cook.

Mahi mahi #1

Mmmmm. Dinner!

 
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Oh, the rainy season in Cotonou

Another moto in the lake

We’re getting to the “rains twice a day” part of the season. Soon it will be “rains all day every day”. And then, “doesn’t stop raining for a week straight”. And then finally, the light at the end of the tunnel. A brief one month stretch with scant rains and lots of sunshine. August, you can’t come soon enough!

 
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Pink partners with community radios to get the word out about breast cancer

Registration table at the hospital

This past weekend, PINK BENIN went up north to Parakou. We’ve been struggling to get out of Cotonou, and more importantly, get the message out to more women in order to a) start tracking breast cancer cases throughout the country and b) create a force strong enough to pressure the Beninese government into making cancer treatments more accessible to the rural pour.

We’re running the pilot with Peace Corps because they’re well integrated into their communities and are well placed to identify reliable partners. We invited 7 villages to send a Peace Corps Volunteer, a community health worker, and a community radio host to learn about breast cancer. The radio hosts will return to their communities and do short shows and PSAs talking about the importance of early testing. They’ll send the women to their community health workers, who will do a physical screaning and teach women how to self-exam. The Peace Corps Volunteer will act as a coordinator and will organize awareness raising sessions. Continue reading

 
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