On peace

Bertrand’s oldest brother passed away over the weekend.

I could write a fascinating post detailing funeral rites and Beninese mourning. But somehow, that feels like an invasion of privacy.

I’ll be back on SVO, Facebook, Twitter, and the rest in a week or so.

 
Posted in Day-to-Day | Leave a comment

On Haiti. Full stop.

I haven’t written much lately because every time I sit down at my keyboard, I want to write about Haiti. I want to write about terrible injustice. And I want to write about the appalling difference I see between main stream media depictions and fresher, more local sources.

I haven’t written about Haiti because, let’s face it. I’ve never been there. I’m not going anytime soon. I don’t even know much about Haiti today (although I’m reading everything I can get my hands on). In fact, many many others have already done a better job writing about recent events than I ever could. They’re experts in Haiti, relief, aid, and a million other things.

That said, there are a few stories that have touched me. Ushahidi and their unflagging efforts to connect people with the help they need. The outpouring of sympathy and relief from Africa. Plug-and-play hospitals from Doctors without Borders (okay, less touching and more “oohhhh shiny”).

This tragedy touches Benin uniquely, as the majority of slaves leaving the country went directly to Haiti and Brazil. The Beninese consider Haitians to be close cousins, practically Africans. Visiting Haitians have told me they feel at home here, and Beninese who’ve traveled to Haiti feel the same way. The whole country is praying for Haiti, and although our financial capacity for giving is small, I do not doubt that Benin will do everything it can.

Bertrand and are thinking about what we can do to help, and at this time, I think the best thing we can do is encourage everyone we know to donate. Several of our clients have asked for extensions on their bills so that they can do just that. Normally, I’d be skeptical (and was at first). Today, we’ve chosen to give them the benefit of the doubt because, strangely enough, we really do think they’ll give.

 
Posted in Day-to-Day, Getting it off my chest | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

SVO is now Creative Commons licensed

Attribution-ShareAlike, to be precise. Copy away, even for commercial purposes. The sole conditions are: 1) you have to credit me (attribute the work) and b) whatever you use my work for also has to be CC licensed.

As SVO is coming up on its five year anniversary, I’mcleaning out some closets and setting a few things in order. I thought I’d done this when first setting up the blog, but it appears that it slipped my mind. For five years.

 
Posted in Administrative | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

On buying intimate apparel in West Africa’s largest open air market

Dantokpa (photo courtesy of Mark Surman)

Dantokpa (photo courtesy of Mark Surman)

Look, women need bras, okay? It’s normal, and I’m here for the long haul, which means that I can’t depend on care packages and occasional trips home for underclothes anymore (yes, it’s true, I did that for a brief period).

For every man who’s like, “WTF is Theresa talking about bras on her blog for?” there’s a woman nodding her head, saying, “OMG I always wondered how they do it.” Well, I don’t know how they do it, whoever they are, but I do know how I do it, and it’s a doozy.

Step 1: Gather up your courage and go to the market. Wear a thin shirt that is easy to take on and off.

Step 2: If you live in Cotonou, catch a zem to Tokpa and run around until you find the women’s clothes sections. These are new clothes, freshly imported from China. Never worn. This is important. The second hand clothes market is a 100F zem ride away.

Step 3: Find a woman with bras and panties hanging on her stall door. I do not have pictures, but I promise to take some the next time I have to go bra shopping. Ask her if she has bras for fat women. (If you just ask for larger bras, every single woman will say yes. It is absolutely crucial to specify that the bra is for a larger woman. Don’t ask me why.) Rinse and repeat as needed until you find someone who stocks bras in your size.

Step 4: Note that there are many large Beninese women who wear bras. Wonder why the fuck there are so few merchants that sell large bras. Realize that most Beninese women who have large breasts wear poorly fitting bras. No Victoria’s Secret free consultations here, my friends.

Step 5: Now that you’ve found a woman who claims to carry bras in your size, tell her exactly what you want. Be prepared with both American (inches) and French (cm) measurements. The woman will begin tearing through enormous plastic bags of bras (each individually wrapped in clear plastic, of course). She will completely disregard any request you have made, and start handing you bras.

‘Take this one! Good quality.’

‘This one is sexy. Your husband will like it!’

‘It’s not too small! You’ll see.’

Step 6: Start sweating.

Step 7: Once you have a handful of merchandise, you have to try it on. If you’ve found a lady with a stall that only opens on one side, you may be able to convince her to hold up a pagne (wrap) while you try things on. Otherwise, you will find yourself in the middle of the market trying on bras over your shirt in front of a rapidly growing audience.

Step 8: None of the bras the woman handed you fit. Yes, she exclaimed that each and every one of them was perfect. She’s never seen or worn a correctly fitting bra in her life. No big deal. Keep insisting until you get what you want. And don’t forget that labeled cup sizes are wildly inconsistent. What might be a B back home could run the gamut from A to D depending on the mark. For larger sized cups, just pretend you can’t read the label and try it on. No need to get ego involved. The point is to get a bra that fits, not argue about your cup size.

Step 9: Haggle. If you’re a yovo, drop the price to 1/3 of the asking price, then work up to about 1/2. This process may or may not take twice as long as your entire adventure this far. Don’t stop smiling. Wipe the sweat off your brow.

Step 10: Treat yourself to a cold beer and a cigarette. You’ve earned it!

 
Posted in Day-to-Day | Tagged , , , | 6 Comments

Facts, lies, and conjecture: Benin Telecoms’ latest blow up

What we know (facts):

  • Our Internet connection has been out since last Friday.
  • So have those of all other WiMax clients.
  • Non-WiMax clients of Benin Telecoms have been having problems since Friday for certain types of downloads and have experienced unusual bandwidth shaping.
  • Connections from other ISPs sometimes work, and sometimes don’t. There is probably a pattern, but we don’t yet know it.
  • .bj domains are up and down and up and down (currently down).

What we’ve been told by Benin Telecoms employees (lies, truths, and half-truths):

  • Benin Telecoms isn’t recognizing WiMax customers’ passwords.
  • Employees of Benin Telecoms shared their passwords with friends so that said friends could use services for free.
  • Benin Telecoms employees are having password problems (including the only person there who can check account status).
  • Benin Telecoms has never seen a problem like this before (and is panicking).

What we think (100% conjecture):

  • Sharing passwords that give access to sensitive information is BAD BAD BAD.
  • Benin Telecoms has no idea how to fix this.
  • This seems to be a perfect storm of overselling bandwidth, poor security, password sharing, cheap equipment, and lack of expertise.

I’m currently using Moov’s USB modem (GPRS) to connect. It’s not bad for checking email, web stats, and occasional blogging, although I wouldn’t recommend it for anything heavy duty, as the connection’s quite unstable.

Hopefully the connection will be back next week, and we’ll be in the free and clear. Otherwise, Bertrand and I will be in the uncomfortable position of looking for a new ISP. For now, we’re using Moov, and hopping around Cotonou looking for cybercafés that work. An hour or two here, an hour or two there—it’s expensive, but it’s the only way to stay in business.

What a way to end the year, Benin Telecoms.

 
Posted in IT in Africa | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

On being broke, being poor, and being glad that I have the luxury of saving

I hate the end of the year in Benin. Everybody turns into a liar. “I’ll pay you tomorrow.” “I’ll call you this evening.” “Stop by at the end of the week.” “Let’s make an appointment for 4:00.” Nobody calls, and we constantly show up to empty offices. It’s more socially acceptable (and easier) to lie than it is to simply admit that they don’t have the money.

Manipulating and manging people you owe money to is an essential part of Beninese culture. You can’t cut someone off unless you have a face-to-face meeting, and if miraculously the face-to-face meeting never occurs, well, it’s your debtor’s lucky day. “Il nous gere.” we say to one another, and sigh.

The biggest spender in Benin is the government, who ran out of money in May. Since then, they’ve been begging, borrowing, and stealing (oh yes) just to pay salaries. Contracts finished in 2008 rest unpaid, and look to stay that way until at least April 2010. If the government can’t pay its large contractors, large contractors can’t pay medium sized contractors, who can’t pay the small businesses they work with, and at the end of the day, somebody’s salary’s not getting paid.

People Online works with small businesses. A lot of people owe us money. It’s easy to say, “Cut off their hosting! Stop doing work for them!” But if we do that, then we lose any change of recouping our losses when everyone finally does get paid in April 2010. And of course, you can’t squeeze water from a stone. We’re well aware that our clients are broke broke broke. It’s not like it’s their fault. Their clients aren’t honoring their contracts either.

Neighbors who can’t pay their rent. Friends who’ve had their electricity cut off. Colleagues who can no longer afford their Internet connection. Small businesses that can no longer pay salaries. This is the precarity of the middle class.

What do you do when a friend comes to borrow $20, and for the first time it’s a choice between helping your friend and paying your water bill? When your brother, who’s always been able to rely on you in a pinch, needs twice as much as usual, but you only have half as much as usual? When your niece’s family can’t afford her school fees, and you no longer have enough to make up the difference?

In normal times, you wouldn’t hesitate to put yourself in a position of slight difficulty to help out your family. You know that when you’re in trouble, your neighbors and family will be there for you too. Everybody’s always broke, and the the easy give-and-take of favors often means the difference between being broke and being poor. Today, the friendly process of social loans has stopped working, and it’s breaking apart the fabric of society.

Everyone knows the end of the year is difficult. Smart businesses (like People Online) prepare a cushion. Normally, this process starts right about now. Mid-November. The gov’t closes the its coffers, and everyone begins the waiting game until February, when some bills will start to get paid, or April, if you’re a small business owed by the government.

This year, the government stopped paying its bills in September, which means that funds were cut off before anyone finished establishing their cushion. Call it corruption, call it the financial crisis, call it utterly irresponsible government spending, call it what you will. The country’s run out of money, and for Benin’s middle class, the difference between being broke and being poor gets just a little bit more blurrier every day.

 
Posted in Development | 4 Comments

Did you know the sky is blue? Obvious and less-obvious in ICT4D conversations

I have a confession to make.

I’m not a development worker.

I work with ICTs in the developing world, but I am driven by profit. This is both a luxury and a burden. It’s cool that people think I have something to say about ICT4D. I don’t. I have a lot to say about ICTs in the developing world, but much less to say about ICTs in a development context. Because I don’t know a bloody thing about development. My world view is skewed towards profits and markets.

In my line of work, ROI is very clear. Either the project makes (or saves!) my client a lot of money, or it doesn’t. Either it increases exposure by X number of readers a month or it doesn’t. Either it brings in advertising revenue, or it doesn’t. Either it brings in new clients, or it doesn’t. Either it fills a market need or it doesn’t.

Our clients are not poor. Broke, sure, that’s normal for small businesses everywhere in the world. But not poor. Their clients are rarely poor either. We don’t work with the BoP.

We don’t have to worry about quality of life.  We don’t have to worry about development indicators. We don’t even have to worry about government buy-in. While we do worry about ethics, we don’t have to worry about negative externalities that will make life worse for a large number of people. Our projects just don’t work that way (and thank goodness for that).

On the other hand, because our clients are paying for the tools we build, I don’t have the luxury of choosing an expensive tool that may or may not work. I can only choose tools that work. Otherwise, I lose clients. Not taking end-users needs and wants into consideration results in failed projects lessoned learned. “Lessons learned” = “very expensive mistake” for clients with limited cash flow.

Seems people still thinking, develop in West and take it to Africa who lags. Need to develop in Africa within resource & context #ICT4D

It’s a luxury to be able to work exclusively locally. Even when we deal with the government, there’s flexibility that doesn’t exist in development and aid sectors, because we’re a private sector firm being paid for our services. As a businesswoman, I cannot imagine designing a tool for local businesses without ever having set foot on the ground and spoken to the end users.

Technology is a tool that allows users to do many many things, including becoming more informed about the world around them, improve rural heath care, encourage citizen journalism, clean water, and a million other things. Tools have to be appropriate to their context.

In some ways, it’s limiting to only do work for money. There are a lot of cool projects that pass us by, including projects that could improve quality of life for a lot of people. Our work is almost exclusively small and local, which means that we rarely work on country-wide implementations. We don’t do large-scale public health projects, for example. Even when we work with development organizations, we’re very focused. We’re hired to accomplish very specific goals: build X tool that accomplishes Y within Z budget, or train X number of people to be able to accomplish Y.

Technology is easy. Issues around geography, language, culture, true empowerment and paths to adoption are challenges. #ICT4D

On the other hand, it’s liberating. My job is to look at the market and find new ways to fill market gaps, and that’s easy to measure. Either we’re profitable or we’re not.

ICT4D fills the space between “market demand” and “making lives better.” There are a million ways to improve quality of life that don’t have obvious revenue models. I like to use crisis mapping as an example of this, but there are many others (public health, education, etc). Projects like this are what government and development do best. Entrepreneurs aren’t moving into this space because we can’t figure out ways to make them profitable (yet).

It’s appalling to me that there are people who design projects without accounting for local needs. It’s appalling to me that we even need to discuss why this is important. Those who took part in yesterday’s Twitter chat are aware of this. But for me, it’s like being aware that the sky is blue. Of course it’s blue. There’s a reason it’s blue. Everybody knows it’s blue. Why are we running around talking about how blue the sky is?

#ICT4D #FAIL is corp. IT firms installing high end Cisco + Blades + CO2 fire supression in crumbling gov ministries. IT is not Magic.

The answer is, of course, that there are a large number of people involved in ICT4D who are not aware that context-appropriate solutions are the only solutions that work. Which is crazy. I actually don’t know anyone in #ict4d who isn’t having intelligent conversations about appropriate technology. I do, however, have evidence that such people exist, because Beninese ministries keep paying me to clean up their messes. Someday, I would like to meet these folks.

It’s odd to participate in conversations about development where everyone’s like, “Yeah! Local! Small! Low-tech! Sustainable!” For a businessperson, these things are so painfully obvious, they even don’t need to be said.

 
Posted in Development, IT in Africa | Tagged , , , , | 4 Comments